Aurora hdr 2018 question5/5/2023 ![]() ![]() I find most presets to be overdone, and choose not to use them. I realize that I am an exception to the rule, and this is why so many presets are provided. ![]() I am no fan of presets, and rarely use any of them other than the default as a starting point. For those who want to work fast, or want the same look to all their HDRs, there are myriad presets in multiple categories provided for you directly by the software. They are all neutralized on start, so you do not know before you start your work what adjustments Aurora has already made. This process involves a lot of filters and you can adjust them all after the fact. Unless my subjects are so solid that they have no movement, I choose the ghosting correction and unless there is a good reason to do otherwise, will use the middle image as my reference.Īurora then blends the images together using its default process. Whatever extra time it takes has never hurt me. Since most of my HDR images are shot handheld, I turn this on. ![]() Personal choice.Īurora accepts the images and asks if I need auto alignment. I find that I get less crunchy HDRs when I do this. I only shoot in RAW so I manually remove the auto-sharpening that Lightroom does. I tend to select the images in Lightroom with the only Lightroom processing done is lens correction. My use cases involve using Lightroom as my digital asset manager so I typically call Aurora from Lightroom rather than launching it directly. You still have to judge your exposure properly to place what you want where you want it in each shot, so while auto-bracketing works a charm a lot of the time, in very high dynamic range situations like harsh sun, you are better off making your own decisions per image.Īurora HDR 2019 can work as a standalone tool or as a plugin to Photoshop or Lightroom. In many, but certainly not all cases, a bracket of 0, -2 and +2 is a good range. Then you want a shot that is overexposed enough to place your shadows clearly in the midtones, and an underexposed shot to place your highlights in the midtones. You still want to get your most important part of your scene exposed slightly above middle grey in your primary or starter shot. The best practice is not to just blaze away with auto bracketing turned on. If your camera is older, go for more images. The general consensus with dedicated HDR software is that three images tend to be optimal with modern cameras. ![]() While some products claim to do HDR from a single image (it’s really just pulling highlights and pushing shadows and playing with contrast) some, like Lightroom’s built in HDR can do the job with as little as two images, one underexposed and one overexposed. As sensor dynamic range has improved, newer sensors produce images with higher dynamic range and we need fewer images to achieve our goals. One of the reasons that HDR fell out of favour is that in the early days, you really did need 5 or more images to get enough data for the software to work well. HDR or High Dynamic Range is a technique that melds multiple images together to pull more detail out of the shadows and highlights by pulling data from over and underexposed images and binding them together in one. To this end, the use of HDR as a creative process has fallen off a bit in the last couple of years, and with the availability of good HDR tools, it may be a good time to rethink this. Still cannot figure that one out, but hey, to each his or her own. Some people have even taken to doing their HDRs in camera. For most of us, the bad old days of overcooked, nuclear waste looking HDRs are over. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |